Category: India, 2019

Bullet Baba and the Road to Delhi

October 31

Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, how many of you know the story of Bullet Baba? Okay, then, listen up.

On Dec 2, 1991, a young man named Om Banna was riding his motorcycle on the road 33 miles from Jodhpur when he lost control, hit a tree and was killed. The bike was taken to the police station, but the next morning, it appeared mysteriously again at the accident site. It was taken back to the police station several times, chained and fuel removed, but each time it reappeared at the accident site. To commemorate this miracle, a temple was built at the accident site and each day hundreds of people come to pray, bring offerings, touch the bike which is housed there and take photos of strange people like us with their phones. This, it is thought, will assure the devotees of safe passage in their journeys. Here was the scene today.So, if you’ve been to India, seen the Taj, but missed Bullet Baba, that’s a damn shame. We saw it only because our driver from Jawai to the Jodhpur airport, Manu, knew about it and asked whether we’d like to stop. Of course, we would. One of the things I love about India is that there are thousands of tales of Bullet Babas to be found, each of them ardently believed and deeply meaningful to the faithful.

After a relaxed breakfast outside at our camp, we ride some 31/2 hours to Jodhpur, are met at the airport and spend a very long time standing in line to clear security for our flight to Delhi. Actually, I spend a very long time in line. Carol whizzes right through, because, in payback for the lines at restrooms, they’ve devised a system with a separate line for women. Carol cleared security a good 35 minutes before I did.

We’re met at the Delhi airport and driven an hour to our hotel, one of my all time favorites, The Imperial, arriving around 6PM. Air quality is very poor. Delhi is reputed to have the worst pollution of any major city in the world. Our guide says that it’s because of Diwali, all the firecrackers, but that sounds fishy to us. The Imperial is a decadent colonial-era hotel that has been upgrade with modern amenities. Just my type a place.

We go down to one of the four restaurants for dinner, then relax and retire.

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