Category: India, 2019

Lunch at Home in Hyderabad

October 26

After breakfast, Jonty picks us up at the hotel and we drive to the old city to visit the extraordinarily beautiful Paigah Tombs.  (Whenever I say “we drive” it means that our driver drives our guide and us.). Intricately carved in marble, these are the tombs of the powerful Paigah Nobles who were close to the Nizam. Unlike the tombs we visited yesterday, these are small in stature and not well known. In fact, we are the only ones there and have to rouse a guard to open the gate for us.

We head next for a vegetable market. Jonty explains what we are seeing, how they are used and more. It’s more vegetables than I, personally, need, but Carol enjoys it.

Here’s a creative guide who has built a cash drawer into his seat.

After the market, we head to a private house, where Jonty has arranged for us to have a lunch prepared by the woman who lives there. We first see the altar in the home that they worship at daily. As was true of the vegetable market, Carol likes this far more than I do. She enjoys watching the meal being prepared. Lunch is tasty.

After lunch, we drive to the four palaces of the Chowmahalla Complex.   Jonty tells us numerous stories and intrigues about the seven Nizams (Kings) of Hyderabad whose destinies and decisions shaped the history and culture of this region. The Seventh Nizam was once pictured on the cover of Time Magazine as the richest man in the world. The Sixth is the one who built the palace (hotel) we are staying in. We walk through the imposing Durbar Hall and the various rooms which have recreated a slice of life from the past.

Hyderabad’s charms lie beyond the monuments.  The charm of the city is found wandering the through historic Lad Bazaar. We risk life and limb riding in a tuk-tuk from the palace to the bazaar.We see the iconic four towers structure in the heart of the marketWe walk through the colorful and chaotic market where vendors sell an extraordinary variety of items ranging from mundane household goods, to the colorful bangles for which the city is so well known.  Carol buys a bunch of bangles, with Jonty’s assistance. It is a slice of Hyderabadi life – vibrant, chaotic and absorbing.

After the bangles, we return to the hotel, bid a fond goodbye to Jonty and try the palace tour again with another, understandable guide. This time it’s far better and the quite incredible palace is a treat. These few photos won’t do it justice, but at least they’ll give you some idea.

My favorite is the dining table that seats 101 guests, which we are told is the largest in the world.

We return to our room and find that the two swans who were at the foot of our bed have morphed into an octopus.

We’ve about had it with going to restaurants, so we opt to order into our room. I order–would you believe it–a pizza, and it’s absolutely fantastic. Carol’s minestrone and a paratha are also excellent. We pack and get ready for tomorrow’s very early departure.

5 comments to Lunch at Home in Hyderabad

  • Wendy

    Maz wouldn’t even need an insert for that table! The sights and the experiences are pretty amazing, as usual. Look forward to hearing how the various things rank and how the trip ranks among your other travels. Surely you’ll be heading home soon.

  • Phoebe Snell

    Sounds like a very full, fun day! Love the photos!
    L,
    PR

  • lauri pollack

    This is such a colorful adventure. Thank you so much for sharing. Love it.

  • arnie

    Love the table leaf comment, Wendz; very funny. We could saw it in half and have Brother Mel do an insert for those nights on which we have 106.

  • Don Hilliker

    Great photos, Arnie. Especially enjoyed the market shots – always colorful scenes.

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